Mount Cook (2)

The vegetation in the valleys to the east of Aoraki/Mount Cook, particularly the Tasman Valley, is not as abundant as that found on the western slopes of the mountain. Forest would normally thrive at elevations of around 1,300 meters in this area, but the lack of soil due to scree, rock falls, and the effects of glaciation prevent this from occurring in most areas around the mountain. Snow tussock and other alpine plants can be found at elevations as high as 1,900 meters. Above the snowline, the only living things that can be found are lichen, amidst the rock, snowfields, and ice that dominate the highest parts of Aoraki/Mount Cook. It is a place where life must struggle to survive in the harsh and unforgiving conditions.

The first recorded attempt to reach the summit of Aoraki/Mount Cook was made by Rev. William S. Green, a Irishman, Emil Boss, a Swiss hotelier, and Ulrich Kaufmann, a Swiss mountain guide, on March 2, 1882, via the Tasman and Linda Glaciers. Despite their best efforts, they fell just short of the top. The same was true for the attempt made by Mannering and Dixon in 1890. It is a place that has tested the mettle of many a brave and determined adventurer.

The first known successful ascent of Aoraki/Mount Cook was made on December 25, 1894, by Tom Fyfe, John Michael (Jack) Clarke, and George Graham, all New Zealanders, who reached the summit via the Hooker Valley and the north ridge. This was their second attempt, after a previous one on December 20 had failed. They were motivated by their desire to see the first ascent of the mountain made by New Zealand mountaineers, as there were reports that the American mountaineer Edward FitzGerald had his sights set on the summit. The party reached the top at around 1:30pm, filled with excitement at their achievement. The route they took was not repeated for over 60 years, until the 100th ascent in 1955. It is a place that has witnessed many memorable moments in the history of mountaineering.

The second ascent of Aoraki/Mount Cook was made by Matthias Zurbriggen, a Swiss guide from FitzGerald's party, on March 14, 1895, from the Tasman Glacier side, via the ridge that now bears his name. This ascent is credited as the first solo climb of the mountain, although Zurbriggen was accompanied part of the way up the ridge by J Adamson. After Zurbriggen's successful climb, it was another decade before the mountain was ascended again. In February 1905, Jack Clarke and four others made the third ascent, following Zurbriggen's route. Clarke thus became the first person to make a repeat ascent of the mountain. It is a place that has seen many challenges met and conquered by courageous climbers.

On December 3, 1910, the first woman to ascend Aoraki/Mount Cook was Freda Du Faur, an Australian. George Bannister, a local guide and nephew of another guide, Butler Te Koeti of Ngāi Tahu, became the first Māori to successfully climb the peak in 1912. In 1913, Freda Du Faur, accompanied by guides Alec and Peter Graham, became the first to traverse all three peaks of the mountain. This "grand traverse" was repeated in January 1916 by Conrad Kain, who guided the 57-year-old Jane Thomson up the mountain in what was considered at the time "a marvellous feat unequalled for daring in the annals of the Southern Alps". It is a place that has welcomed the achievements of both men and women, of all nationalities and backgrounds.

Sir Edmund Hillary, the renowned mountaineer and explorer, made his first ascent of Aoraki/Mount Cook in January 1948. The following month, accompanied by Ruth Adams, Harry Ayres, and Mick Sullivan, he made the first ascent of the South Ridge to the Low Peak. To honor the life and achievements of Hillary, the South Ridge was renamed the Hillary Ridge in August 2011. It is a place that has inspired and been shaped by the deeds of many remarkable individuals.

Aoraki/Mount Cook is a mountain that demands a high level of technical skill and experience from those who would climb it. Its glaciated terrain and unpredictable weather make it a challenging climb that can change drastically depending on the conditions. The ascent involves crossing large crevasses and presents risks such as ice and rock falls, avalanches, and rapidly changing weather. It is a place that demands respect and caution from all who would seek to conquer it.

Since the beginning of the 20th century, approximately 80 people have lost their lives attempting to ascend the majestic Aoraki/Mount Cook. It is known as New Zealand's deadliest peak, with the climbing season running from November to February. Hardly a season goes by without at least one fatality on its slopes, a testament to the mountain's formidable challenges. It is a place that has claimed the lives of many, but also one that has inspired countless others to test their limits and push themselves to new heights.

According to Maori legend, Aoraki was a young boy who, along with his three brothers, was the son of Rakinui, the Sky Father. One day, while sailing around the Papatuanuku, the Earth Mother, their canoe became stranded on a reef and tilted. Aoraki and his brothers climbed onto the top of the canoe, but the south wind froze them and turned them to stone. Their canoe became the South Island, known as the Te Waka o Aoraki, and the peaks of their prows became the Marlborough Sounds. Aoraki, being the tallest, became the highest peak, and his brothers became the Southern Alps, known as the Kā Tiritiri o te Moana. It is a story that has been passed down through the ages, and one that continues to captivate and inspire those who hear it.

For the Ngāi Tahu people, Aoraki is the most sacred of their ancestors and holds great spiritual significance. It is seen as a symbol of community and purpose, and is believed to be the physical embodiment of Aoraki, connecting the worlds of the supernatural and nature. This mountain holds a special place in the hearts of the Ngāi Tahu, and its enduring presence serves as a reminder of their connection to the land and their rich cultural heritage.