Mount Everest (6)
As one of the highest peaks in the world, Mount Everest presents a formidable challenge to even the most experienced climbers. Located on the border of Nepal and Tibet, the mountain is known for its treacherous climbing routes, extreme weather conditions, and high altitude. Two main routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the north ridge from Tibet, offer the chance to reach the summit, although other, less frequently climbed routes exist. Most attempts are made in May, before the summer monsoon season, as the jet stream shifts northward and reduces wind speeds at higher altitudes. However, the monsoon season and its aftermath can make climbing difficult due to additional snow and unstable weather patterns.
The southeast ridge route begins with a trek to base camp and acclimatization to the altitude before tackling the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. From there, climbers make their way up the Western Cwm and establish Camp II or Advanced Base Camp at 6,500 meters. From there, they ascend the Lhotse face and establish Camp IV on the South Col at 7,920 meters. This marks the beginning of the death zone, where climbers can only survive for a few days due to the high danger and low oxygen levels. The final push to the summit involves traversing the Hillary Step, a rock wall at 8,790 meters, and the loose, rocky section above it.
The north ridge route also begins with a trek to base camp and acclimatization, but follows a different path up the mountain. Climbers ascend the east Rongbuk Glacier and establish Camp II at the base of Changtse. Camp III, or Advanced Base Camp, is located below the North Col at 6,500 meters. From there, climbers ascend the North Col and establish Camp V at 7,775 meters. The route then crosses the North Face and reaches Camp VI at 8,230 meters, from which the final summit push is made. This involves ascending the First Step, the Second Step (which includes a metal ladder placed by Chinese climbers in 1975), and the Third Step, before reaching the summit pyramid and the final summit ridge.
The high altitude and extreme weather conditions on Everest pose significant health hazards to climbers. The death zone, above 8,000 meters, presents the greatest danger due to low oxygen levels and the risk of frostbite and hypothermia. Retinal hemorrhages, which can cause blindness, are also a risk. The physical demands of the climb and the need for prolonged acclimatization can also lead to exhaustion. In addition, the mountain's popularity and the skill of those climbing can impact the overall danger of the ascent. Despite the risks, many climbers are drawn to the challenge of reaching the summit of Mount Everest.
The ascent of Mount Everest is a treacherous journey that begins with a trek to Base Camp at an altitude of 5,380 meters on the south side of the mountain in Nepal. From there, climbers spend a few weeks acclimatizing to the altitude before setting off up the mountain. The route includes several camps along the way, each at higher elevations, including Camp I, Camp II, and Camp IV, which is located on the South Col at an altitude of 7,920 meters.
The final push to the summit is made from Camp IV, with the goal of reaching the top within 10 to 12 hours. The route to the summit includes several challenging sections, including the Khumbu Icefall, the Lhotse Face, the Western Cwm, and the Hillary Step. The summit itself is small, about the size of a dining room table, and is located in an area known as the "death zone," where the low pressure and lack of oxygen can be deadly.
Despite the use of oxygen tanks, the climb is still extremely dangerous and many climbers have lost their lives on the mountain. The threat of frostbite, high winds, and low pressure all pose significant risks, and the death toll on Everest is high. However, for those who are able to successfully reach the summit, the experience is one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering.
At the higher altitudes of Mount Everest, climbers must navigate the death zone, an area above 8,000 meters where the lack of oxygen can cause serious health problems. Many climbers use oxygen tanks to help them survive in this harsh environment, but some choose to forgo this aid in the name of purity. The use of bottled oxygen has been a source of controversy, with some arguing that it allows less qualified climbers to attempt the summit and contribute to the dangerous overcrowding on the mountain. The 1996 disaster, in which eight climbers died, brought the issue of the guide's responsibility in using bottled oxygen to the forefront. The low oxygen levels at high altitudes can also cause cognitive impairment and even permanent brain damage.
As the monsoon season comes to an end, Mount Everest becomes a less popular destination for climbers. The autumn season is known to be more dangerous due to the fresh snow that often covers the mountain, making it unstable. Despite this, the season has seen successful climbs, such as Eric Larsen's ascent in 2010 with a team of Nepali guides. In the past, the autumn season was actually more popular than spring for climbing Mount Everest. Winter climbing is not as common due to the cold temperatures and high winds, as well as the shorter days. The summit of the mountain is subject to winds of up to 170 mph and an average temperature of around -33°F during the month of January.
For the first time in history, in 1922, George Finch and Captain Geoffrey Bruce climbed to an altitude of 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) on Mount Everest. Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary made the first successful ascent to the summit in 1953. In 1975, Junko Tabei became the first woman to reach the summit, and in 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to do so without the use of supplemental oxygen. In 1980, the mountain was successfully climbed in the winter for the first time, by Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki. Messner also made the first solo ascent that same year, and in 1981, Peter Hackett made the third solo ascent. The first female ascent without supplemental oxygen was made by Lydia Bradey in 1988, and the same year saw the first cross-over climb, with Chinese, Japanese, and Nepali teams ascending simultaneously from both the north and south sides of the mountain. Jean-Marc Boivin made the first descent by paraglider in 1988, and in 1998, Kazi Sherpa set the record for the fastest ascent to the summit via the southeast ridge without supplemental oxygen. Erik Weihenmayer, a blind climber, reached the summit for the first time in 2001, and that same year, Lhakpa Sherpa became the first Nepali woman to successfully summit and survive. Christian Stangl holds the record for the fastest ascent via the northeast ridge without supplemental oxygen, completing the climb in 16 hours and 42 minutes in 2007. Jordan Romero, at 13 years and 10 months old, is the youngest male to reach the summit, and Malavath Purna, at 13 years and 11 months old, is the youngest female. Kami Rita Sherpa holds the record for the most successful summits, with 26 as of 2022, and Pasang Dawa Sherpa has reached the summit 25 times.
As the 21st century progressed, a trend of summiting Mount Everest with disabilities such as amputations and diseases emerged. One notable example is Sudarshan Gautam, a man with no arms who reached the summit in 2013. Others, like Mark Inglis and Paul Hockey, have also climbed the mountain with amputations. In 2001, Erik Weihenmayer became the first blind person to reach the summit. In recent years, Nepal has also banned individuals for faking ascents of the mountain, including three Indians in 2021 and two Indian police officers in 2017. Even base camp, the starting point for most Everest expeditions, can be dangerous, as evidenced by the 2015 avalanches that killed dozens of people.
In 1933, a group of planes led by the Marquess of Clydesdale flew over the summit of Mount Everest in an effort to photograph the unknown terrain. This mission was funded by Lucy, Lady Houston, a British millionaire and former showgirl. In 1988, Jean-Marc Boivin became the first person to paraglide down the mountain, setting a record for the fastest descent and the highest paraglider flight. He ran 60 feet from below the summit on a 40-degree slope to launch his paraglider and reached Camp II at an altitude of 19,400 feet in just 12 minutes. In 1991, four men in two hot air balloons achieved the first ever hot air balloon flight over the mountain. Chris Dewhirst and Leo Dickinson, who took panoramic views of the mountain captured on Kodak Kodachrome film, later wrote a book about their adventure called Ballooning Over Everest. Today, Dewhirst offers flights over the mountain for $2.6 million per passenger.